Tanzanian Roads Travelled This past Week .......

As regular readers know, I've been quite busy lately with lots of new projects on the horizon - building a house on the land we've just bought, refurbishing our guest cottage, school runs .... not to mention catching up with old friends (from sedate morning tea's to boozy barbecues !) and .... shopping trips to the city.

So, I decided to post a few photo's of the roads I've travelled this past week - just to give you another idea of what a diversely beautiful country Tanzania is. The road above is the 'driveway' to my daughter's school - which is nestled on the edge of a very old coffee plantation. Beautiful, isn't it ?

The other road scenes were taken on the way to our plot, on the way to the city, on the way to a friend's house - all over, really ..... I particularly like the shady, tree lined road above - and always feel really peaceful when driving along it ....

So much of Tanzania is still relatively untouched - no power lines or telephone lines to marr the horizon (although we do have several really ugly mobile 'phone towers dotted here and there).

Punctures are a common occurance here, but as long as you are prepared you're usually okay. Within minutes of stopping you can expect around 1 million kids and people from the nearest village to surround your car offering to help (as you provide them with their daily entertainment !)

My children are so used to driving on bumpy roads and sleep better when we're driving on them, than they do when we're on the tar !

If you'd like to see some more incredible African roads and scenery from different parts of this magnificent continent, then pop on over to two of my favourite African blogging friends .... 'One Stoned Crow' over in Namibia has posted breathtaking photo's of Namibia's stunning Orange River road in a recent post over here and Jo at 'Memorable Meanders' who is currently posting from her home in the Sudan (did you know that the Sudan has more pyramids than Egypt ? I didn't ! Browse Jo's blog & visit some of them with her !) did a (heart wrenching) post on 'Children of The City' early this week - click here to read that and see the streets of Khartoum.

Where I've Been .......

Well .... firstly, in the city of Nairobi, Kenya .... as viewed from our hotel window, above .....

Then ... flying into the city of Johannesburg, South Africa - as pictured below ....

Then on another 'plane from Johannesburg .... making our way to the Eastern Cape coastline of South Africa ..... flying over mountainous areas as seen below ....

Then all the way back again .... East London, Johannesburg, Nairobi, Kilimanjaro ..... and here is Kilimanjaro's magnificent peak just before sunset below - as we flew right past her on our way home ....

As the sun began to set on yet another African day .....

And the clouds turned a pinky candyfloss hue ......

As the pink disc of sun sank into the horizon .....

And we came in to land ..... the emerald green vegetation below us, and lots of water all around still (a stark contrast to South Africa's golden, parched earth)

We had a wonderful break away - but as always, it sure feels good to be home again !

City Scenes ... & the Arusha Clock Tower

The development in the city over the past few years has been phenomenal

I love the city of Arusha - it is one of my favourite places in Tanzania, and a place where we once lived. I have written about it on the blog before, and posted photos and if you haven't read that post, then you should do so by clicking here as it will give you a quick overview of the city, aswell as a few more photo's.

The Arusha Clock Tower (situated on a grassy 'roundabout' a.k.a. 'traffic circle') is a famous city landmark

When we first moved to Tanzania a little over 12 years ago, many of the roads in the city (Arusha did not yet have 'city' status at that stage) were still dirt roads, and the ones which were tarred were mainly peppered with potholes and in poor condition. Over the years the roads have been fixed up, buildings in the main streets repaired and painted and there has been so much development .... with new shops, petrol stations, office blocks, hotels and restaurants being built all over the city.

Over the years, many of the roads have been repaired and tarred - and less livestock is seen on the roads now, too !

It's great to think that Arusha is an up-and-coming African city, and nice to have watched it grow and develop over the years. Especially when I compare it to some parts of Africa, where poverty is rife and many African cities and towns are sad remnants of what they once were. Sure, Arusha has it's problems in parts like crime, poverty and filth just like any other city .... but I like to rather focus on it's more positive aspects.

City traffic is increasing as the years go by & more people can afford to buy their own cars

The clock tower is a famous Arusha landmark (pictured in the first 2 photo's of this post). It is commonly thought that it is the midway point between the Cape and Cairo (supposedly representing the halfway point between the two points of Africa's old British Empire). But this is not the case, as the real midway point between these 2 African cities actually lies in the central Congo. Nevertheless, it is still probably one of the most photographed city landmarks.

Many interesting items can be found for sale along the city streets - here are some African mud pots - great for putting plants in & displaying on your veranda !

According to the 2002 National Census, Arusha has a population of around 1,292 973 people, and this is increasing by around 6% per year. Many of the people living in the area are small commerical or subsistence farmers and as you drive through the city you can find many things that resident's have for sale along the roadside .... fresh fruit and vegetables, cloths and secondhand shoes and clothing, pots and plants/seedlings to mention but a few.

Mt Meru - Africa's 5th highest mountain - is visible from all over the city on a clear day (& sits at the 'end' of this road above !)

Arusha lies at the Southern foot of Mt Meru (Africa's 5th highest mountain) and on a clear day the mountain is visible from many parts of the city - especially at the end of this road pictured above, although you cannot see it in the photo.

Can you see the banana plantations along the main road as you exit the city ?

The photo above is taken as you head out of the city. Arusha is surrounded by lush, green, fertile lands and many banana and maize plantations (pictured below). If you ever visit Tanzania, a trip to this city is a 'must' - it has so much to offer, interesting landmarks, friendly people and some great restaurants, too ... perhaps I'll have to do a blog post about that side of the city sometime, too !

Lush, green lands and small banana and maize plantations can be found on the outskirts of the city

Typical Tanzanian Road Side Scenes ....

A man carrying a water container and a Maasai man in traditional dress (red blanket) walking past a local village Church school (above) .....

The Church (which is attached to the school above) can be seen hidden some distance from the road below ....

Approaching one of our local villages ..... it's market day today, so there is an extra hustle and bustle and a buzz of excitement in the air ....

Passing some local houses - many of which double up as shops during the day. These ones have some second hand clothing and cloths hanging outside for sale ....

A colourful hardware/paint shop with delivery truck parked outside .....

Aside from bicycles, motorbikes (known as 'piki piki's' here) are a very popular form of transport and it is not uncommon to see 1,2 or 3 people on the back of one of these - or perhaps a single person with a goat or a box of chickens strapped behind him. Below you can see 2 people on a piki piki, slowing down to let a herd of goats and cattle pass .....

Here is a young man carrying a lady behind him 'side saddle' style on his motorbike .... be it a bicycle or a 'piki piki', Tanzanian ladies always ride side saddle here. The small, green, 3 wheeled vehicle approaching on the right side of the road ahead putt-putt's along and also acts as a taxi service. They are known as 'half loaves' as they look like half loaves of bread !

Open road .... the 'Great North Road' which cuts through many African countries .... only a few uneven parts here and minor potholes. So time to put the foot down and pick up a little speed while we can ....

This type of journey, for me, sure beats driving on a pristine highway anyday .... and I hope that you enjoyed these typical Tanzanian road side scenes with me today, too !

Kambi Ya Tembo ('Camp of Elephants'), West Kilimanjaro

The top of some of the guest accommodation tents (with thatched coverings over their tops to keep them cool) are just visible from the camp's open air boma

We recently spent the day at a lovely, rustic tented camp in the West Kilimanjaro area called 'Kambi Ya Tembo' ('Camp of Elephants') - it is within driving distance of our farm, and we met some of our neighbours there (who farm in the same area as the camp) for Sunday lunch. This camp used to be a temporary camp (many temporary camps here dismantle during the rainy months when game viewing can be poor and roads a muddy mess !) but is now a permanent camp.

The airy, thatched lounge/dining area has comfy sofa's and a floor of powdery sand - a novel idea, and one which fits in well with the rustic atmosphere of the camp

The camp - which is inside a private concession of around 600 square km's - borders Kenya's 'Amboseli National Park' and Tanzania, and has magnificent, sweeping views out over Kilimanjaro, Mount Meru and the surrounding Acacia studded plains. It is called the 'Camp of Elephants' due to the presence of huge elephant bulls (some as old as 50 years) which can at times be spotted here. (I spoke with a lady who had recently seen a small herd of elephant drinking from a waterhole within a stone's throw from the main dining area of the camp).

The magnificent views from the dining area give an idea of the vastness of the surrounding area

The concession in which the camp lies is part of a Community Conservation Project which benefits the Maasai people of the area. The Maasai in this area still live very much in the traditional way - dressing in their traditional tribal clothing and following age old ceremonies and rituals, and are relatively untouched by the 'outside' world.

Seats with a view - which can't be beat !

I'm sorry that I did not take any close-up shots of the guest tents (one of the waiters kindly gave us a guided tour) but they are very nice - clean, spacious, comfortable and nicely decorated and all with en suite bathrooms (toilet/shower/basin) and small veranda's with magnificent views out over the surrounding countryside.

Our dining table - situated under the airy, open central dining/lounge boma

The central camp areas consist of a huge thatched lounge and dining boma - with comfortable sofa's, coffee tables and a nice selection of wildlife books. The floor of these areas is sand, and it is quite novel to be sitting on a comfy sofa with sand at your feet ! The idea works well and fits in with the surroundings.

These main areas look out on to a man made watering hole - perfect for game viewing. After lunch a few of us went on a short walk around the watering hole, and we were told that longer guided bush walks could easily be arranged for guests, as well as night game drives and cultural day trips to local Maasai villages.

The open air boma where a camp fire is lit at night - the perfect spot for an after dinner drink !

There is also an open air boma adjoining the dining area, where a big camp fires is lit at night - a perfect spot for enjoying your after dinner drink !

The lunch which we had there was simple, tasty home cooking - vegetable stir-fry, beef and been stews, savoury rice, salad and for dessert we were served fruit salad followed by Tanzanian tea and coffee and vanilla sponge cake.

The staff were friendly and efficient and I wouldn't hesitate to recommend this as a lovely camp to spend a few nights at. We''ll definitely return for another meal sometime, and I realise how very lucky we are having a lovely spot like this virtually on our doorstep.

Pangani Village & Coastal Life

The village of Pangani, as seen after crossing the river when you first arrive

Expanding a little on my two posts last week about my recent trip to the Tanzanian coastal town/area of Pangani, I thought I'd post a few more photo's of the town and include a little more about it here.

Pangani town is situated in the North Eastern corner of Tanzania, so named because it lies at the mouth of the Pangani River - the waters of which originate on Mt. Kilimanjaro ! The town is split on both sides of the river, with older buildings, houses, a central market, shops and offices on one side and smaller dwellings, shops and farms on the other side - movement between the two sides is either by local fishing boat or ferry.

Local houses are built to stay as cool as possible. The brightly coloured clothes of the local people add to the vibrant atmosphere of the town.

The area is a large coconut farming region, producing around 50% of Tanzania's coconuts. There are coconut plantations almost everywhere you look, which adds to the tropical feel of the area.

These taxi's were waiting to cross the Pangani River by ferry - vehicles, people, bicycles, food items and livestock constantly move back & forth across the river on the ferry

Sisal, maize (corn), bananas and cassava are also grown in this area. Most people who live here practice farming of some sort, even if it is just small scale subsistence farming.

Many of the local people are also fisherman, with their own boats which they take out each day. Fish is a staple part of the diet and is eaten either fresh (cooked) or dried.

This small village/settlement lies right along the coastline ... with the Indian ocean right on it's doorstep !

Due to the year round hot, humid temperatures, local houses are designed to keep cool. Many are made from wattle and daub with thatched rooves, and during the day it is common to see people resting or sleeping outside their homes on grass mats under the shade of nearby trees. Long pieces of cloth often cover the doorways (in place of closed doors) to let in the air.

Not far from where we stayed was a small village/settlement along the beachfront (click on the photo above to enlarge and see that) and it is not uncommon to see animals on or near the beach (once I even saw a cat going for a sunset stroll !) People walk or ride their bicycles along the beach during low tide, and the odd motorbike (or 'piki piki' as they are called here) often whizzes past.

The coastal people here are laid back and friendly and always make you feel welcome. Along with the tropical beauty of the area and the unspoilt beaches, it's not hard to see why some people refer to Pangani as the 'Zanzibar of the Tanzanian mainland' and it is definitely worth a visit if you are ever in this part of the world - especially if you enjoy unspoilt places which are 'off the beaten track'.

Snap Shots Of My Week At The Tanzanian Coast .......

The double storey beach house has both an upstairs and a downstairs (pictured above) veranda .... we chose to have breakfast downstairs each day.

I love the wooden shutters throughout the house .... all of these, along with the door frames are made from the wood of old dhow fishing boats ......

Lazy breakfast's (or drawn out brunches) at an old wooden table overlooking the Indian Ocean ....

Our private spot on the beach .... sunbathing in the shade of the coconut trees ..... and our favourite sundowner spot each evening, too ....

Wind whipping coconut trees with a beach-hut-come-boat-house nestled beneath ....

Lunchtime views of the ocean from the dining area of a nearby lodge .............


Where we ate fresh fish 'mishkaki' (kebabs) with a soy dipping sauce. And chips.

These tall coconut trees offered up some wonderful treats .....

Fresh coconuts .... the sweet, icy cold milk drunk right out of the shells .... and the tender flesh eaten as a late afternoon snack .....

Sea shells galore ....

And centipedes, too. (Swept off wooden floors to make way for crawling babies - yes, 8 month old son has started to crawl !)

I could tell you that these make an excellent (and protein packed) sundowner snack fried in butter until crisp .... but how would you know if I were joking, or not ?!